Govee's app has a ton of colors, scenes, and other preset lighting effects to choose from.
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If you have a 55- or 65-inch TV, you can get similar functionality from Govee’s Immersion TV Lightstrip. The light bars are also designed for screens between 27 and 45 inches, and the reactive lighting won’t work properly with other screen sizes. This won't work for every household as some bezel-less TV designs make placement at the top awkward, and placing it at the bottom can block the TV's infrared sensor for the remote control. The camera is angled to watch your TV or monitor and needs to be in the center top or bottom of the screen.
Both the control unit and the camera have an adhesive backing, so you'll want to pick a permanent spot for them carefully. It took around 30 minutes to complete this setup process.
To do all of this, you first need the Govee Home app on your phone and run through a calibration process that involves sticking orange foam squares onto your TV screen or monitor. Watching a fiery scene from a movie? The camera tries to pick up the colors and directs the light bars to mimic them for a more immersive feel. You point the webcam-like device at your monitor or TV so it can see what's going on and adjust the colors of the light bars to match. The control unit has a power button, a color cycle button, and a button to switch to audio-reactive lighting, which brings us to the reason why there's a camera here at all. You'll need to then hook the power adapter to the control unit to light the whole thing up. The light bars connect to a separate control unit via a lengthy USB-C cable, and the camera-yes, camera-plugs into the unit's USB-A port. I rebias my own gear because I can every time, and I like to observe the component wear to understand the natural progression of wear first hand.The Govee Flow Pro system comes with a pair of 10.5-inch rectangular plastic light bars and a choice of two mounting solutions: stick them to the back of a TV or monitor, or slot them into stands. (4) You value your amplifier and dont think the risk is worth not spending 20 bucks for a rebias (3) You have amp idle biased 'at the upper end' (like above 70%) (2) You have significant play on the amp since last change (again, the wear uncertainty thing) (1) You have significant time between changes (component degradation is NOT at a known constant, neither is what true state of the amp since the last time you retubed) (4) You dont mind rebuilding the power section if a tube fails, or giving your local tech something to do for an hour of so and some money (3) If you dont bias at the upper end of idle dissapation (see above posts for definition of this) (2) You know the tubes are from the same batch and the grading is good (1) Not a lot of time elapsed since tube change (weeks, normal playing) When it comes to replacing a grade of tubes with the same and not rebiasing. The greater the amplitude of the input signal, the more the valve opens to allow the power supply to draw more current through the OT primary (wow.is that why they call it a "valve"?). Think of the input signal as a "control signal". The power supply draws current through both the valve and the OT primary, while the valve is just a metering device that meters this current based on the input signal that is fed into it. It comes from the "power supply" (hey.maybe THAT'S why they call it that!). Furthermore, power does not come from the valves. That's because plate dissipation power and output power to the load are not the same thing. People ask all the time "How can you get 50 watts out of a 25 watt valve?". What does this mean? This means that "plate dissipation" and "output power" are not one and the same like most tend to think.
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This happens because most of the power is being transferred to the load and the voltage across the valve is at its lowest, while being at its highest across the OT primary, yet current is the same through both the OT and the valve (current is the same at all points of a series circuit).
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Assuming a full power clean signal, valve dissipation will be at its highest when the signal is at 1/2 the peak swing, then dropping down to its lowest at the peak of the swing. The valve dissipation will increase when hit with an input signal. This says nothing about what the load is dissipating which is very little compared to what the valve is dissipating in a quiescent state.įurthermore, this also says nothing about what the load will dissipate when the amp is putting out a full clean power signal. The wattage figures that Ron is talking about are what the valve itself is dissipating in a quiescent (i.e. I'm gonna add a side note here for those who aren't yet in the know but are still learning.
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